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Mychorrizas are a type of fungus which form a symbiotic relationship with many plants. The fungi partly live inside the plant’s roots and partly in the soil. The plant provides the fungus with sugars and other products of photosynthesis, and in return the fungus increases the efficiency of the roots by increasing their surface area, apparently up to 1000 times! You can take soil which contains mychorrizas from underneath a well established tree, but as we do not want to have to keep digging around trees we have made a space where we can breed our own mychorrizas. A technique of doing this is by using a ‘trap crop’. Step 1: Dig a pit in the ground (if you only want to produce a small amount you could just use a plant pot). 2014-01-22 10.32.51 Step 2: Line the pit with plastic to stop too many plant roots going into the surrounding soil. Make some drainage holes in the plastic. DSC_0097 Step 3: Dig up some soil from underneath an established tree or shrub (here we used a retama plant) which should contain mychorrizal fungi. Take it from a depth of around 20cm. DSC_0095 Step 4: Mix the soil from the tree with the soil you dug from the hole and also with some compost and return this mix to the pit. DSC_0119 Step 5: Sow seeds of plant from the legume family (peas, beans, clover, alfalfa etc) and the grass family (corn, millet, grazing rye etc). These two families make relationships with different kinds of mychorrizas. Water regularly. DSC_0126 Step 6: Let the plants grow for at least 10 weeks and then cut them down to ground level. Step 7: Wait for a week or so after cutting for the fungi has time to produce spores, then dig up the soil and chop the plant roots into small pieces (5mm should be fine). This mixture of soil and plant roots is your mychorrizal innoculum. Step 8: To use the innoculum, place some in the bottom of your planting hole when transplanting or place some at the bottom of a seed tray if you are sowing seeds.
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Sunseed News
PIE MURO After restoring a stonewall in the Arboretum, it remained a clear area where we have recently planted Mediterranean plants. We have planted one Pistacia lentiscus (Mastic) that it can be found in north facing slopes and close to gullies around our valley. We have also planted another plant from the same gender, Pistacia terebinthus (Terebinth). And finally, two Laurus nobilis (Bay leaf), in terms to provide the kitchen with bay leafs for cooking. Mastic, Terebinth and Bay leaf: LENTISCO LAURELCORNICABRA First, we selected the spots for the digging and planting depending on the proximity to other plants, the wall next to the parcel and the dripping irrigation system that it had already been laid around. Some weeding was needed in some spots too. In each hole, humanure was added as fertilizer. Once planted we have surrounded and secure each of the plants with stones taken from the site and safeguarding the dripping irrigation system stays in placed next to them. The wall restored last year has been used for planting Sedum sediforme (Pale Stonecrop), and also for seeding Capparis spinosa (Capers) looking forward to harvest some this year. FINALMB We prepared a substrate with one basket of soil and one basket of “Humanure”, the manure from human ‘s faeces. Then we watered abundantly. SUBSTRATE Before sowing the seeds, they were soaked in lemon juice to help the germination and develop a good percent of growth. CAPERS SOKED IN LEMON JUI After this germinative treatment, we sow the seeds mixed with our substrate making balls to fill the gaps on the wall. SEMBRAR ALCAPARRAS MB UÑA DE GATO2MB In the same way, we planted the plants of Pale Stonecrop. We used the same substrate to fix them on the wall and to protect their roots. wall vegetation Both plants, Pale Stonecrop and Capers, are found in our valley in rocky soils with very low requirements of water,…perfect choice to encourage drylands biodiversity in the Arboretum!.PIE MURODespués de la reciente restauración de un balate en el Arboretum, el departamento ha decidido revegetarlo con plantas mediterráneas locales. Hemos plantado una Pistacia lentiscus (Lentisco) presente en laderas de humbría orientadas al norte y cerca de barrancos y cárcavas en el entorno de nuestro valle. También hemos plantado otra planta del mismo género, Pistacia terebinthus (Cornicabra). Y por último, dos Laurus nobilis (Laurel), con el objetivo de dar un uso culinario a sus hojas. Lentisco, Cornicabra y Laurel: LENTISCO LAUREL CORNICABRA En primer lugar, se seleccionaron los puntos para la siembra y plantación en función de la proximidad a otras plantas y el sistema de riego por goteo ya establecido anteriormente. En cada hoyo, se añadió “humanure” como fertilizante, abono proveniente de las heces humanas. Una vez hecha la plantación se protegen las plantas con piedras para mantener la humedad y fijar el riego por goteo. La pared restaurada el año pasado, se ha utilizado para la plantación de Sedum sediforme (Uña de gato) y la siembra de Capparis spinosa (Alcaparras), con vistas a cosechar algo de alcaparras este verano. FINALMB Hemos preparado un sustrato con mitad de suelo y mitad de “humanure”. A continuación se ha regado abundantemente. SUBSTRATE Antes de la siembra de las semillas, éstas se empapan en jugo de limón para favorecer su germinación. CAPERS SOKED IN LEMON JUI Después de este tratamiento pregerminativo, sembramos las semillas mezcladas con el sustrato haciendo bolas que permitan rellenar los huecos entre las rocas del balate. SEMBRAR ALCAPARRAS MB De la misma manera se ha procedido a plantar las plantas de Uña de gato. Utilizando UÑA DE GATO2MBel mismo sustrato, se fijan las plantas en la pared asegurándonos de que queden sus raíces bien protegidas. wall vegetation Ambas plantas, Uña de gato y Alcaparras, se encuentran en nuestro valle en suelos rocosos con muy bajos requerimientos de agua,…una elección perfecta para fomentar la biodiversidad vegetal de climas semiáridos en el Arboretum!.
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A hotbed is a traditional method of using heat produced by decomposing organic material, such as manure or compost, to start seedlings off early in spring while it is still cold outside. There are various different ways to make a hotbed for different purposes and in different environments. Here is how we made ours: Step 1: Take six bales of straw and make them into a rectangle, mark out the hole in the middle on the ground. Step 2: Move one of the end bales and dig out 20cm of soil from the hole and put it aside (the top 20cm is the most fertile and contains the most beneficial soil life such as bacteria and worms) Step 3: Fill the hole with layers of manure, dry leaves, straw and urine. It is important to use manure that is as fresh as possible, as this will produce the most heat for the longest time. The urine helps kick start the process as it is rich in nitrogen which feeds bacteria, which in turn produce the heat. We used roughly three wheelbarrows of manure to one barrow of dry leaves and straw. The hole should be filled to 20cm below the top of the bales. Step 4: Put the soil (taken from the bottom) mixed with some mature compost on top of the manure to fill up the hole. It will bulge over the top to begin with, but will settle down onver time as the manure rots down and the soil compacts. Step 5: Wait for the temperature to rise and then sow seeds when the temperature has stabalised. It should produce heat for one to two months so ours should stay warm till mid March. 2014-01-15 16.18.18DSC_0007 DSC_0009 2014-01-10 12.35.412014-01-17 16.06.10 2014-01-22 09.24.58 DSC_0001 DSC_0004
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Sunseed News
The Eco Construction department has been working in the preparation of chumba & lime paint. First you find some chumba and then slice it in small pieces, then cover it with water and leave it fermenting for a week, next friday will see the final product Well, the paint did turned out not quite how we wanted it, it had a greenish colour. We will do another tryout, this time peeling the chumba so we end up with a much clear product. The paint does cover very well on just one coat which is very uncommon when using lime wash so we think we are in the right path for making the ultimate eco paint. Wait for the next update.El departamento de eco construccion ha estado trabajando en la preparacion de pintura de cal y chumba Primero hay que encontrar una chumbera y cortar unas hojas entonces de corta todo en pedacitos y se cubre con agua, se deja fermentar y listo el viernes que viene veremos los resultados
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We finally have a new polytunnel! This will be a protected space for propagating seedlings. We were kindly donated the hoops by a local farmer who no longer needed them and we used the plastic cover from our old polytunnel so it cost almost nothing to build. The plastic is buried in the ground on the sides to make it tight. The hoops are cemented into the ground and are connected with side struts to make the structure really strong and durable. DSC_00272013-12-31 16.37.56DSC_00862013-12-31 16.38.042014-01-07 10.22.52DSC_0079DSC_00332014-01-07 10.50.48DSC_0029
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We decided it would make sense to create an area specifically for seed saving for a variety of reasons: making it clear that the plants are only for saving, not for harvesting; making it easier to prevent cross-pollination (i.e. for brassicas); and having a space for plants that take two years to produce seed (i.e. carrots). We chose part of Terrace Uno for our purpose and, like in other gardens, installed a drip irrigation system and built raised beds. We have planted/transplanted beetroots, carrots, oriental greens – purple flowering choi sum and mizuna, broccolis, lettuces and shallots. IMG_3060 DSC_0544 DSC_0548 DSC_0554 DSC_0556 DSC_0560 DSC_0561
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Now is the time for harvesting beetroot, walking through the almond blossom and hanging out with the bees who pollinate the flowers while feeding from their sweet nectar. IMAG1721 We have various patches of beetroot in the gardens planted at different times to ensure an extended harvest. During cold spells its growth slows right down, but after a nice warm period we harvested 10kg from one row in the Patch. We ate some fresh, grated into salads, some cooked and some preserved in jars for eating when we have none to harvest. Beetroot is a great crop to grow as it can grow in partial shade and does not need lots of water or nutrients, you can also eat the leaves like chard or spinach. IMAG1695
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 During these month we have been making our own almond milk. That was with the almonds that we picked last Autumn and that we have been crushing during the last weeks. With that we have obtain many litres of delicious drink 100% vegetable, local, full of calcium and proteins. Do you want to know the recipe that many volunteers have learn already? Here it is!   vaso-leche-001-559x450 Ingredients 200grs of almonds 2 litres of water We put the almonds to soak slightly cover with water for 12 hours. We rinse the almonds and add new clean water, half a litre. We blend with the hand blender. Filter the milky liquid with the help of a colander. Keep the almond mush, add more water one litre and repeat. Filter again the liquid and repeat the process once more. After the 3rd time you will have a nice veggie drink. esencia-de-almendras-aromaticaleche de almendras (1)   If you like a thicker drink you can add less water. You can also use the same technique with other seeds, nuts and grains such as: hazelnuts, sesame or sunflower seeds, oats… And…what happen with the almond mush? We do delicious deserts, pates and sauces as the ajoblanco…but we’ll tell you the recipe in another post! By now enjoy your drink!
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